8.裹身苏格兰裙

Passage Eight

Wrap(envelop) kilt 

裹身苏格兰裙

【1】It's been worn(wear) as battle dress by warring clan chiefs(leaders) and weekend dress by wandering royals, but now the kilt is making its way from the highroads of Scotland to the high streets of fashion, thanks to some celebrity devotees.

苏格兰裙曾是交战部落首领的战斗服装，也是皇室成员闲逛时的周末穿着。但现在，由于一些名人的追捧，苏格兰裙正从苏格兰的公路走向时尚的商业街。

【2】Viewers of The Traitors who switched on the second UK series this week in the hopes of more gothic grandeur and backstabbing were treated to a moment of enviable fireside fashion thanks to the tartan wrap around Claudia Winkleman's waist.

《叛徒》第二季的英国观众原本希望看到更多哥特风格的宏大场面和背后捅刀，但本周他们看到了克劳迪娅·温克尔曼腰上的格子呢外套，令人羡慕的炉边时尚。

【3】Winkleman's kilt certainly fitted(conformed) the Caledonian castle backdrop and it was also in line with a wider moment for the pleated skirt. The kilt is well and truly back,” says Queralt Ferrer, design director of fashion at John Lewis. "We've seen searches for the wardrobe staple on johnlewis.com increase 92% versus this time last year.”

温克尔曼的方格呢裙不仅与苏格兰城堡的背景相得益彰，也符合百褶裙的大趋势。约翰•刘易斯时装设计总监克拉尔特•费雷尔表示：“苏格兰裙真正回归了。我们发现，在johnlewis.com网站上，对这种基础款的搜索量比去年同期增长了92%。”

【4】On secondhand site Depop, searches for kilts are up 52% month on month. For one seller, Charlotte Dibley, "the craftsmanship(technology) and quality materials of kilts standout in a world dominated by fast fashion's fleeting trends”.

在二手网站Depop上，苏格兰裙的搜索量较上个月增加了52%。在卖家夏洛特•迪布利看来，“在一个由转瞬即逝的快时尚趋势主导的世界里，苏格兰裙的工艺和优质材料脱颖而出”。

【5】 At the more luxe end, Chopova Lowena, a buzzy(fashionable) London-based brand, has recently led the charge. The label's carabiner skirts are beloved(devoted) of K-pop stars and Chloe Sevigny. A Burberry kilt can set you back 1,490, while Rave Review upcycles vintage kilts to make very modern-looking skirts.

在更奢侈的市场，伦敦知名时尚品牌Chopova Lowena最近引领了这股潮流。该品牌的扣环裙深受韩流明星和克洛伊·塞维尼的喜爱。一条博柏利方格呢裙会让你回到1490年，而瑞典品牌Rave Review则将复古方格呢裙升级，制作出非常具有现代感的裙子。

【6】At last year's Met Gala, A$ AP Rocky, widely touted as one of the best dressed men on red carpets, wore what appeared to be a red tartan kilt over bejewelled jeans. However, as Andrew Groves, a profess or of fashion design at Westminster University, points out, “it wasn't technically a kilt. What exactly qualifies as a kilt is not always clear.”

在去年的纽约大都会艺术博物馆慈善舞会上，打扮广受好评的时尚达人A$AP Rocky穿着一条看似是红色格子苏格兰裙的宝石牛仔裤。然而，正如威斯敏斯特大学时装设计教授安德鲁•格罗夫斯所指出的那样，“严格来说，这并不是苏格兰裙。到底什么是苏格兰裙一直不是很清楚。” 

【7】“Essentially it's a piece of cloth worn as a garment around your waist with a flat front, which is called the apron, and with the back pleated" says John McLeish, chair of the kilt-adjacent Scottish tartan Authority, who owns six.

约翰·麦克利什 说：“从本质上讲，它是一种围在腰上的衣服，前面是平的，被称为围裙，后面打褶。” 约翰·麦克利什是苏格兰裙管理局的主席，拥有6条苏格兰裙。

【8】Of course, he says, "kilts don't have to be tartan but generally they are'. In the 1740s, after the Jacobite rising, the kilt was outlawed north of Scotland's Highland line. It is a sign of heritage and institution. Thanks to Vivienne Westwood, it became synonymous with punk. It is establishment and anti-establishment, royalty and rebellion(treason).

当然，他说:“苏格兰裙不一定非得是格子呢的，但通常都是。”在十八世纪四十年代，詹姆斯二世党崛起后，苏格兰高地以北地区禁止穿苏格兰裙。它是传统和制度的标志。多亏了维维安·韦斯特伍德，它成为了朋克的代名词，既是权力的象征又是反叛的象征，既有皇室的气息又透着叛逆。

【9】Groves thinks it is popular now because of its ability to "outlive its original function ... capable of being reinvented and reinterpreted by each new generation”. As a result, he says, "it occupies(holds) a space outside of fashion that is seen as historical, romantic, and even folkloric; making it ripe for appropriation by fashion designers and then open to subversion”.

格罗夫斯认为苏格兰裙现在很受欢迎，是因为它能够“超越最初功用，被每一代人重新发明和诠释”。因此，他说，“苏格兰裙占据了时尚场域之外的空间，它是历史的、浪漫的，甚至是民间的。这让它能够被时装设计师挪用，然后被颠覆”。

【10】The kilt has a rich history as men's and womenswear. "It used to be said that the kilt was a rough, bulky garment worn by rough, bulky(ponderous) men" says Groves. “So, when it's situated(located) within a contemporary fashion context(background) it becomes an incredibly(unbelievably) interesting and contradictory garment, both formal and archaic, hyper masculine, yet subversively feminine.”

苏格兰裙作为男女服装有着丰富的历史渊源。格罗夫斯说:“过去人们常说，苏格兰裙是粗犷、笨重的男人穿的粗犷、笨重的衣服。因此，当被置于当代时尚背景下时，它就变成了一种非常有趣且矛盾多样的服装，既正式又古老，极具男性气概，又具有颠覆性的女性化氛围。”

【11】Of course, for some people the kilt never went away. McLeish has been wearing them since childhood. They are, he says, "as at home at a sporting event, a wedding, a graduation, a ball, as they are on the catwalks of Milan”.

当然，对有些人来说，苏格兰裙从未消失。麦克利什从小就穿着它们。他说，苏格兰裙“不仅适合运动赛事、婚礼、毕业典礼、舞会，同样也能够在米兰时装秀的T台上大放异彩”。